| Stud Boy Snowmobile Studding Process |
| Why you should install traction and
control products on your snowmobile. In order to realize the full potential of your Snowmobile, it is critical that you transfer horsepower and directional control ( steering) to the track or trail. This is why traction control products are considered the best performance investment available. You will notice significant performance increases in the range of 30% or greater with the addition of studs and performance wear bars to your snowmobile. Safety is the other reason to consider traction and control products. When you are traveling the trail systems today, the ability to stop or turn at a moments notice is critical to your safety. Only traction and control products can give you this confidence and security when facing trails where you are never sure what conditions may be ahead. Due to increased traffic on the trails, we face icy, cleared-out turns, hills and roads, along with many riders coming from the other direction, sometimes at high speeds. It is very comforting to know that your snowmobile will respond the way you need it to and traction and control products provide this confidence. Which type of stud you should use ? Carbide tipped studs will provide the best performance for trail riding and some racing applications. The more aggressive steel studs offered are most commonly used for racing conditions. Racers are using these studs in a controlled environment and are always looking for that little bit "extra" that the very sharp studs can provide. They also understand these studs will not live long when used off the ice. Which length stud is best Trail riders should use a stud that is no more than 3/8"(.375") taller than the tallest part of your track. While some people use longer studs in trail and racing applications, you must take special precautions to ensure that you will not damage your sled or the traction products. Be sure to check your installation for proper protection of the tunnel, tunnel protectors and heat exchangers. FORMULA: Push-thru Style Studs: Stud Length + Backer Plate(.190 inch) + Track Deflection(.045 inch) - Track Lug Height = Effective Stud Length. Example: .875 inch + .190 inch + .045 inch - .725 inch = .385 inch effective stud length. T-Nut Style Studs: Stud Length + Backer Plate (steel .190 inch or aluminum .225 inch) + Track Deflection .045 inch - Track Lug Height = Effective Stud Length. Example: .875 inch + .225 inch + .045 inch - .725 inch = .420 inch effective stud length. Marking and drilling your pattern Using Stud Boy's "Studding Template", paint marker, and included instructions, transfer the pattern of your choice (see stud patterns page) onto the track. With your sharp, Stud Boy "Track Hole Cutter", drill the pattern you marked on the track during step 1. Be sure to hold your cutter straight and watch while drilling to avoid damage to the idler wheels or other suspension components. T-Nut Style Studs Push your Stud Boy "T-Nut Puller" through the hole in the track from the outside. Thread a T-Nut onto the T-Nut Puller and seat the T-Nut into the track. Reverse your installation tool and remove the T-Nut Puller from the T-Nut while maintaining light pressure on the T-Nut to keep it in the track. Position a Backer Plate onto the stud. If you are using our pre-applied "Thread Locker", screw the stud assembly into the T-Nut. If you are not using pre-applied "Thread Locker", be sure to place a drop of Loctite™ #271 thread locker onto the stud and T-Nut. Be sure to align your bracket plate with the track lugs. Torque the stud to 80 to 100 inch pounds. Correct installation will allow the stud and backer plate to bottom out against the T-Nut. To prevent stud loss, let the thread locker cure for at least 24 hours at 65 to 70 degrees before riding. To ensure minimal stud loss, after each outing check for studs that may have loosened. Triumph Style Studs Place a drop of Loctite™ #271 thread locker onto the stud and T-Nut. Screw the stud into the T-Nut. Once several threads are engaged, position the stud assembly into the track from the inside. Install a backer plate and lock nut onto the assembled stud in the track. Align the backer plate with the track lugs. Tighten the lock nut with a deep well socket while holding a T-Nut firmly into the track with your other hand. Continue to tighten it until the backer plate bottoms out on the T-Nut and the stud is completely seated into the T-Nut. Be careful not to over-tighten the lock nut, as this will strip the threads. Be sure to let the stud assembly cure for a minimum of 24 hours at 60 to 70 degrees. To ensure minimal stud loss, after each outing check for studs that may have loosened. Push-Through Style Studs Position the stud into the hole in your track from the inside of the track. Install the backer plate and lock nut onto the installed stud. (Do not use Loctite™ when using nylon lock nuts). Tighten the stud assembly using a deep well socket and allen wrench until the stud and backer plate bottom out against each other. Be careful not to over-tighten the lock nut. This will strip the threads. Make sure you have aligned the backer plate with the track lugs. To ensure minimal stud loss, after each outing check for studs that may have loosened. How Many studs you should install We feel a good starting point is one and one-half studs per horsepower. When using this formula as a starting point, you can increase or decrease the number of studs to fit a pattern that best suits your riding style. We strongly suggest that you use not less than one stud per horsepower at any time. However, be careful not to "over-stud". Over-studding will allow less penetration, resulting in a loss of traction. Also, if you "over-stud" you may lose the ability to turn. |
